Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
